Varanasi, wow! What an assault on the senses after the Shanti, chilled out South Varanassi confronts you on all fronts. This city has many faces but to make it understandable to those who have never been will be hard but i will try and leave you with my impressions.
I met a young girl from England also doing the long haul trip from Hydrabad and we were next to one another so we palled up and went into Varanasi together as we decided to go to the same place. We were taken by rickshaw to the main road then thinking we were at the hostel or at least close by Amy got out to check the room out and i stayed in the rickshaw. After about 15 minutes i asked the guy why she was taking so long, the driver who stayed with me while his friend took Amy replied "many street no problem Varanasi holy city nothing bad happen here".
I relaxed. A moment later a lovely French girl went hurrying past i caught her on the way back in a blind panic, she had lost her husband poor woman i offered support and she disapeared with a look of dispare. I hope it all worked out ok for them.
We eventually got to the hostel through a maize of tiny sterets and checked into our rooms. It was morning so we went up to the roof and were greeted with a terrific view of the river. We stayed in Manikarnika Ghat the main one for burning and we could see the smoke rising continually and the smell of sandalwood insense permiated the thick air. There were also piles of logs stacked along the streets crammed next to rows of tiny shops sellying everything including the best lassie i have yet tasted, yum!
We wandered around and were so close to the river at least i knew i could find my way back.
We were imediatly approached by a chap who started explaining the whole burning ritual. From our view point we were perhaps fourty feet from about six wood fires where we could see the burning process but were not allowed too close. We were warned not to take pictures as this would be "very big problem". I will not go into the whole ritual but one interesting fact was that holy men and a few other types will not be burnt because they are already pure.
Everywhere we went we were approached by young and old "you come look my shop, no buy just look". I ended up buying a scarf i did not want just to get rid of the guy. So Varanassi was my first experience of real pushyness and it is a *******! Pain in the arse.
I met up with a nice crowd and we hung out together going across the river and exploring the ghost of a town with a museum showing old carriages and weapons of the former Marahajas. Did not expect much but was pleasantly surprised but apart from us all nearly dying of thirst that was it for the other side.
Last night we all went out to the German bakery and the Westeern food we had was amazing, i had a chicken scnitzel that was excellent, well anything would taste great after dosa or paan all the time. I had a massage on the Ghat steps it was teriffic. I got up and was so relaxed, just as well because later that night we all went together to watch and take part in a festival and the nasty side of the city emerged as one of the young girls was being followed and seriously harassed by this creep of a guy. I won't say what i overheard him proposition her but suffice it to say i had to be held back from attacking him. We retreated back to the safety of the hostel to relive the experience and have a few beers. So, a holy city? Definitely! Seedy as hell after dark? Sure! So now i am sitting here with an hour and a half left before i take the night train with Amy to the good `ol Taj in Agra. Can't wait.
Will update pics in a day or two but i have had a great time, oh yes i also took a couple of yoga and meditation classes and loved it. My guru was cool.
